Can Am Defender Skid Plate Rivet to Bolt Conversion Kit ^{GREAT DEAL}

Slick Product - Game Changer!

I am not sure why a rivet nut system is not standard on side by sides. This is definitely a flaw in the production of those vehicles. Enter WKP's conversion kit. I did a lot of research about this process, but actually had a tough time finding a product that came as a kit for my specific application. WKP's menu to select my vehicle type and then provide a specific kit was the ticket. The kit is clean and the instructions are clear, but I'll add some of my thoughts after performing the install. I have a recommendation on the instructions to increase the time it takes to install. To drill out the old rivets is approximately a 1-2 hour job by itself. You have to drill slowly to allow the metal bit to cut the old rivets. Then there may be a few that have to actually be fully drilled out. The 3/16" bit to drill out is accurate. However, prepping the 3/8" holes is a whole other process that I had to spread out over 3 days because my shoulders took a beating (see below). Keep in mind, on the Can-Am Defender 2 seat model you are working with over 80 holes. I tried going right at the holes with the 3/8" bit and that worked for about 10 holes. I broke 2 bits in the process. I modified my method by dropping down a bit size to an 11/32" and then worked my way to the 3/8" bit. Remember, the bit has to go slowly to cut the metal. High speeds don't work. So doing the math, I drilled out 88 holes with a 3/16" bit to pop the old rivets, then I'm drilling another 88 times to widen the hole with an 11/32" bit, then I went through with the 3/8" bit another 88 times to finish out the holes. Just be prepared for a lot of drilling and understand your workspace will get filled with metal shavings. I stopped frequently to keep cleaning my workspace with a roller magnet to keep from getting metal splinters in me. For context, I'm in my garage, vehicle jacked up on stands, working on my back, and drilling up. It's doable, but an odd (and shoulder tiring position) work position to drill that many holes. I've seen some people post where they have hoisted the side by side into a vertical position to access the underside, which would be great, but not all of us have that capability. Another point if you are using a cordless drill - have spare batteries. I used an M12 Milwaukee and have 3 batteries that I kept rotating. You go through them quickly on this job and that can delay things if you are only working with one battery. Set your drill on the drill mode and the 1 speed. Then gently feather your trigger to let the bit grind and cut the metal. It really is a slow process. Lastly, I'll put a plug in for the Astro Pneumatic 13" nut/thread setting hand riveter kit Model 1442. You need this tool to actually install the rivet nuts from the WPK kit. There are others, I just happened to go with this one. Good price, clear instructions, and has worked extremely well. In closing, I think all side by sides should have this product installed. What I didn't say was that my reason for taking on this project in the first place was to address a big oil leak that I couldn't diagnose/repair from the top. I had to access the bottom of the vehicle. Dropping the plates is a game changer to servicing these vehicles. Get the kit, get the right tools, put in the elbow grease, and you will be pleased with a commercial grade, clean product that makes servicing side by sides exponentially easier. Good luck!